Bosnia is the most rewarding and least visited Balkan country. Sarajevo and Mostar are essential; the scenic Sarajevo–Mostar train through the Neretva gorge is one of Europe's best short rail journeys. Direct buses connect to Belgrade, Zagreb, Dubrovnik and Kotor.
Bosnia uses the convertible mark (KM/BAM), pegged 1:1 to half a euro. Euros are accepted in tourist areas but cards less so — keep cash. The country is split into two entities (Federation and Republika Srpska); for the traveller this is invisible except on bus tickets, where the entity name shows on the operator. Sarajevo's old town (Baščaršija) and Mostar's Stari Most are unmissable; Travnik, Jajce and Blagaj are excellent two-day add-ons.
Best time to visit
May–June, September–October. Sarajevo is gorgeous under snow Dec–Feb.